In this section.....

How We Treat Our Skin and How it "Ages"

Skin Types & Recommended Moose Creek Products

Anti-Aging Ingredient Descriptions ~

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Anti-Aging Ingredient Descriptions

DMAE ~ Alpha Lipoic Acid ~ Vitamin C Esters ~ Alpha Hydroxy Acid

It is the way we treat our skin - not the aging process - that "ages" our skin the most, especially delicate facial skin. The intrinsic (internal) process is compounded considerably by extrinsic (external) influences.

Negative contributors such as stress, sun exposure and other climatic extremes, harsh soaps and detergent based products including some moisturizers, air pollution and other environmental toxins, poor and rough treatment, chemical laden facial products, smoking and alcohol consumption, poor nutrition, sleep deprivation, hormones, illness etc. One only has to compare the skin on their face to that of the inner thigh to prove that point~

Acquire beautiful skin by utilizing a quality, ongoing skin care regimen that will heal, nourish, moisturize and protect your skin and attack free radicals that damage our skin from the inside out. Being a strong advocate of Dr. Nicholas Perriconeś research and formulary concepts, you will see his influence in my own formulations. They are formulated to repair, restore, nourish and protect at an affordable price. Ultimately, you also have a healthy diet rich in vitamins and minerals, especially antioxidants and hydrate with at least 8 glasses of good distilled water a day ~

There are a wide range of commercial skin care products on the market today with an even wider range of claims. Unfortunately precious few deliver. Many have one, maybe two good ingredients and often they are way down on the list with fillers, chemicals and cheap oils heading the pack. These products usually provide if any, only superficial short-term gain. It́s why the cosmeceuticals business has become a multi-billion dollar per year industry. On the other hand, there are some very good high quality products available if you seek them out~

The vast majority of people throw good money after bad buying into the hype, puffery and fads that are often hard to decipher. The benefit, for the most part, going to the companies with clever marketing... at the expense of people who just want to look as good as possible. You have choices ~ Learn a little (or alot :D) about the things you put on your skin ~ Read labels and know what is in the products you buy ~ Use products that are geared for your personal skin challenges and desires. Íll step down off my soapbox now and talk about taking good care of your skin with simple, natural, nutritional skin care products~

We use no alcohol, mineral oil, fillers or paraben preservatives. You will love our powerhouse of anti-aging properties blended in perfect harmony for the ultimate in facial care. Visit our INGREDIENTS page for detailed information on why we use certain ingredients. You can also visit the SKIN PHYSIOLOGY page to learn about skin, skin types and the aging process. Also see our section on READING COSMETIC LABELS AND COSMETIC AND SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS TO AVOID.

Combating Sun Damage through diet~

Internal defense against sun damage can be eaten with our diet. Ripe tomato products, dark purple fruits and berries contain Lycopene, an antioxidant that help prevent skin damage. “Lycopene� can also be taken supplementally and several commercial products have this substance as a part of an overall antioxidant formula.

When eating tomato products to gain Lycopene’s benefits, studies tell us that products prepared with oil, such as pasta sauces, are better sources of this wonderful protective agent than raw tomatoes or tomato juice.

Skin Types & Recommended Moose Creek Products

 

When it comes to looking young, nothing may be more important than taking care of your skin. A beautiful, healthy glow makes you appear radiant and youthful while a dull, dry, or flaky complexion can add years to your face. But before you spend money on skin products that promise great results, it is important to know what type of skin you have and what kind of care it needs. At Moose Creek we’ve formulated products for all skin types. Personal consultation and blendings are available also, so if you don’t feel that you fit into a particular "type" send an email to info@MooseCreekBathandBody.com and we can formulate a blend personalized just for you.

What Is Skin?

Your skin is a living organ that constantly regenerates itself. The outer layer, called the epidermis, is as thin as a pencil line. It consists of a protective layer of skin cells that continually shed and give way to new cells. Below the epidermis are the dermis and hypodermis, two layers that produce the oil, collagen, and elastin that give your skin support, elasticity, and shine.

What Are The Different Types of Skin?

There are three basic skin types: oily, dry, and combination.

Dry Skin

Dry skin occurs when the dermis does not secrete enough oil, or sebum. The result is tight, drawn, flaky skin and a dull complexion. In more extreme cases, dry skin lacks elasticity and can be extremely sensitive to the sun, wind, and cold temperatures.

How to Take Care of It:

Wash your face once a day with a rich, creamy cleanser and warm water. Rinse with cold water and pat your skin dry. Use heavy, oil-based moisturizers and makeup. Avoid toners and makeup that contain alcohol as alcohol-based products have a drying effect on skin.

Recommended Moose Creek Products:

 

Green Tea Milk & Honey Cleanser

Floral Water Moisturizing Toner

Rhassoul ~ French Green Clay Mask

Monoi’ de’ Tahiti Fine Line Buffer Face Creme 

Oily Skin

Oily skin usually has a lot of shine to it and the pores are generally enlarged. It is more prone to pimples, blackheads, and whiteheads than other skin types and is coarser in texture.

How to Take Care of It:

Oily skin tends to attract more dirt than dry skin, so wash your face several times a day with a light, non-greasy liquid cleanser soap and warm water. Rinse with cold water. Use toners and astringents containing alcohol to help dry the skin. Buy water-based moisturizers and make-up and use powder to minimize shine.

Recommended Moose Creek Products:

Alpha Hydroxy Gentle Wash and/or Fresh Cucumber Soap

Anti-Blemish Astringent for Oily Skin

Rhassoul ~ French Green Clay Mud Mask

Light Daily Hydrating Complex

Combination: Normal to Oily

People with normal to oily skin generally have normal skin on their cheeks and oily skin with enlarged pores on their T zone, the area that stretches across the forehead and down the nose and chin.

How to Take Care of It:

The trick with normal to oily skin is to find products that will keep your skin hydrated, while minimizing breakouts and shine in the oily areas. Look for cleansers designed for combination skin and use a water-based moisturizer, applying it less frequently to oily skin. Products that contain alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin A retinols can help balance combination skin. Use oil-absorbing makeup to reduce shine.

Recommended Moose Creek Products:

Alpha Hydroxy Gentle Wash

Floral Water Toner

Rhassoul Clay ~ French Green Clay Mud Mask

Light Daily Hydrating Complex

Combination: Dry to Oily

This skin type is marked by oily skin in the T zone and dry, taut skin on the cheeks.

How to Take Care of It:

Wash your face with cleansers that are designed for combination skin and when using a toner, dilute it with water before applying to your cheeks. Apply moisturizer more frequently to dry skin. Use oil-absorbing makeup to reduce shine.

Recommended Moose Creek Products:

Alpha Hydroxy Gentle Wash & Goats Milk Soap

Floral Water Moisturizing Toner & Anti-Blemish Astringent

Light Daily Hydrating Complex

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin irritates easily and is often red and blotchy. This type of skin can have allergic reactions to beauty products and is usually sensitive to the sun, wind, and cold weather.

How to Take Care of It:

Look for soap, makeup, and moisturizers that are fragrance-free and hypoallergenic. Wash your face once a day and avoid using skin exfoliants. Use a hypoallergenic toner on oily areas, but discontinue if it causes irritation.

Recommended Moose Creek Products:

 

Green Tea Milk & Honey Gentle Wash and/or Goats Milk Soap

Floral Water Toner (will provide very light moisturizing)

Info on Skin Types was last reviewed: June 16, 2003 by Jon Hinrichs, M.D.

 

Anti-Aging Information ~ Ingredient Descriptions

Our Anti-Aging line was created to help damaged and aging skin, and for those who want to protect against further damage. They are formulated to repair damage at a cellular level and provide the nutrients that damaged, aging and wrinkled skin need to heal itself, maintain moisture and look balanced, soft, supple and smooth~We formulate "in whole", not by adding one wonderful thing to a mediocre base. The base of our moisturizers are polynesian Monoi´ de´ Tahiti oil, with essential oils, botanicals, anti-aging ingredients and they´re loaded with anti-oxidants to fight free radical damage and vitamins and minerals to regenerate skin.

A daily, ongoing regime of cleansing, exfoliating, toning and moisturizing are essential to healthy, balanced, beautiful skin no matter your age or gender. We use all-natural cold-pressed carrier oils, essential oils, natures botanicals, vitamins, minerals and the highest cosmetic grade additives available. I know you will love your Moose Creek anti-aging products as much as we love formulating them for you ~ Alice

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DMAE-DMAE Bitartrate (Dimethylaminoethanol)

Water Phase Usage Rate: . 05 to . 8 % by volume in water phase
DMAE has become very popular as a result of Dr. Nicholas Perricone, M.D.´s top-selling book, The Wrinkle Cure, in which he promotes supplementing with DMAE as a treatment for reducing wrinkles. Add to any water soluble product base or during the water phase of your own toiletry. When applied to the skin DMAE would stimulate acetylcholine release which would trigger a response in the muscles of the face. This activity creates a firmer facial tone and less sagging. DMAE is used topically to reduce fine lines and wrinkles showing a noticeable difference within 20 minutes of application. If irritation occurs, wash with soap and water.

 

Booster that enhances the strength of other antioxidant therapies. Excellent for loss of firmness in all skin on face and body, fine lines around lips, stressed overtired skin.

Instant face lift ~ Tightens skin instantly ~ Long-lasting results ~ Plumps lips

 

Alpha Lipoic Acid - (Powder) DL-Thioctic Acid

Oil Phase *Usage Rate: . 2 to 1% in the oil phase of lotions or cremes. 

ALA may very well join the ranks of Vitamin C and E as part of your first-line of defense against free radicals. Known as the "Universal" Antioxidant, it was discovered in 1951, but it wasn´t till the late 80´s that researchers realized that ALA had been overlooked as a powerful antioxidant. It neutralizes free radicals in both the fatty and watery regions of cells, in contrast to vitamin C (which is water soluble) and vitamin E (which is fat soluble). It directly recycles and extends the metabolic life spans of vitamin C and Coenzyme Q10, and it indirectly renews vitamin E. Natural and non-toxic. Perfect for people prone to allergic reaction to other types of skin products. Improves overall appearance of the skin.

Fights Free Radical Damage. Excellent for rough, dry and finely lined skin. Super helpful for:

   

Uneven pigmentation and age spots ~ Razor bump ~ Fine Lines ~ Wrinkles

Under-eye puffiness ~ Diminishing/eliminating acne scars ~ Smooths out and

brightens sallow or dull skin ~Diminishing/eliminating enlarged pores

 

 

Vit. C Esters - Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester) Naturally Derived

Oil Phase Usage Rate . 5 to 5% by volume in oil phase.

Can go deep to the cellular level to help rebuild collagen. Essential to production of collagen.

   

Vanquishes free radicals ~ Heals severely sun damaged skin ~ Heals inflamation

Helps body produce collagen ~ Firms sagging skin due to lost of damaged collagen

 

 

 

Alpha Hydroxy Acid - Malic Acid (Powder)

Water Phase Usage Rate . 5 to- 2% by volume in water phase

Malic acid, an alpha hydroxy fruit acid, can be used in skin care products to rejuvenate and improve skin conditions. Malic acid is a natural constituent of many fruits and vegetables that are preserved by fermentation. It’s water soluble and used in many skin care products..

Enhances other antioxidants ~ Helps with razor bumps ~

Exfoliates dead skin and debris without removing all of the skins oils

 

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Amino Acid

An organic acid containing an amine (ammonia-like) chemical group. Amino acids are put together by your body in highly specific ways to manufacture proteins.   Anti-oxidant A nutrient or chemical that reacts with and neutralizes oxidants, free radicals or chemicals that release free radicals. Antioxidants are also called free radical scavengers. Vitamins A, C, E and some of the B vitamins, beta-carotene, selenium and some key enzymes in your body are all antioxidants. By intercepting the free radicals, antioxidants prevent them from damaging molecular structures such as your DNA (see free radicals). Atrophy Means the dying or death, normally referring to a gland or organ. Cosmetic Herbs Latin name Common name Part used Uses SKIN CARE Acorus calamus Sweet flag Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders, Skin lotions Allium sativum Garlic Bulb Promotes skin healing, Antibacterial Aloe vera Aloe Leaf Moisturizer, Sun screen, Emollient Alpinia galanga Galanga Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders Avena sativa Oat Fruit Moisturizer, Skin tonic Azadirachta indica Neem Leaf Antiseptic, Reduce dark spots, Antibacterial Calendula officinalis Marigold Flower Skin care, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Creams Centella asiatica Gotu kola Plant Wound healing, Reduce stretch marks, Creams Cichorium intybus Chicory Seed Clears skin of blemishes Citrus aurantium Orange Peel Skin creams, Anti acne, Anti bacteria Curcuma longa Turmeric Rhizome Anti bacterial, Anti microbial, Skin creams Cyperus rotundus Nagarmotha Roots Suntan, Astringent, Anti-inflammatory Daucus carota Carrot Seed Natural source of Vit A, Creams Euphorbia hirta Spurge Herb Entire herb Skin diseases, Cracked lips Glycyrrhiza glabra Liquorice Root Anti inflammatory, Decrease pigmentation marks Marticaria chamomilla Chamomile Flower Skin cleanser Mesua ferrea Cobras saffron Flower Astringent Moringa oleifera Benjamin Seed Suntan lotions Ocimum sanctum Tulsi Entire herb Antibacterial, Decrease dark spots Pongamia glabra Karanj Seed Externally for skin disorders Rubia cordifolia Manjistha Root Wound healing, Lighten pigmentation marks Terminalia chebula Harda Fruit Astringent Triticum sativum Wheat germ Germ Natural source of Vit E Zizyphus jujuba Zizyphus Fruit Skin care HAIR CARE Acacia concina Shikakai Pod Natural cleansing agent, Detergent, Dandruff Aloe vera Aloe Leaf Moisturizer, Shampoos Azadirachta indica Neem Leaf Anti-fatigue, Graying of hair, Alopecia Bacopa monneri Brahmi Entire herb Hair growth, Good for sleep, Shampoos Cedrus deodara Deodar Wood Soaps, Shampoos Centella asiatica Gotu kola Plant Hair care, Darkening of hair, Hair oil Citrus aurantium Orange Peel Soaps, Shampoos Citrus limon Lemon Peel Prevents hair loss Eclipta alba Bhringraj Plant Promoting hair growth, Shampoos, Hair oil Emblica officinalis Amla Fruits Hair care, Prevents grayness, Anti stress Hibiscus rosa sinensis China rose Flower Improves hair, Prevents premature greyness Lawsonia alba Henna Leaf Hair growth, Natural conditioner, Natural dye Marticaria chamomilla Chamomile Flower Hair tonic Moringa oleifera Benjamin Seed Hair oils Sapindus trifoliatus Soap wort Fruit Natural detergent, Shampoos Triticum sativum Wheat germ Germ Natural source of Vit E, Shampoos Wedelia calendulacea Bhangra Entire herb Hair care, Shampoos Rosa centifolia Gulab Rose Coolant, Antifatigue Terminalia belerica Baheda Fruit Hair tonic , Used for graying of hair Sesamum indicum Til Seed Hair tonic, Check hair fall, Relieves headache DENTAL CARE Acacia arabica Babul Bark Teeth disorders Azadirachta indica Neem Leaf Toothache, Antibacterial, Dental carries Barleria prionitis Vajradanti Entire herb Strengthens teeth, Tooth ache Syzygium aromaticum Clove Bud Toothache, Antiseptic Glycyrrhiza glabra Yastimadhu Roots Natural sweetner and flavour Salvadora persica Pilu Twigs Anti microbial NATURAL COLORS Bixa orellana Annatto Seed Red, Orange Beta vulgaris Beet root Roots Red Curcuma longa Turmeric Roots Yellow, Orange Caesalpinia sappan Patang Wood Red, Violet COSMETICS  A skin care program is generally put together with three products: a cleanser, a toner and a moisturizer. An expanded program will include an eye cream or oil, a mask, an exfoliant and perhaps, special deep treatments. Because these products are the cornerstones of every skin care program, the quality of the program depends on the quality of the cosmetics. Cosmetics with inferior ingredients can actually harm the skin by drying it out, irritating it or blocking the pores. In many cases, using cosmetics of poor quality is worse than using nothing at all. What constitutes a high quality cosmetic? First, look at the ingredients. Avoid mineral oil, artificial colors and artificial fragrances. It should read like a food label - - the ingredients should be familiar. Be aware that most cosmetics will have preservatives. This is necessary and most skin care professionals accept this, feeling that preventing contamination and possibly skin or eye infections is more important than having a preservative-free cosmetic. Fortunately, today excellent preservatives are available that cover the full spectrum of bacteria, are nontoxic and are only needed in minute amounts. Secondly, investigate the integrity of the company that makes the product. What are their standards? How long have they been in business? Do they stand behind their products? Do they have a particular philosophy that appeals to you? Lastly, what is the manufacturing process? What qualities of raw ingredients are used? Are the products mass-produced or is personal care given it each batch?   These environmental insults include: Sun exposure  Climatic changes: heat, cold, high or low humidity (moisture level in the air) Physical abuse: frictional forces in chafing, rubbing, weight bearing, and shaving hair from the skin Products like soaps, dish washing detergents, household cleaning products, paint, grease, solvents, rubbing alcohol, and cosmetics Skin-tight clothing Water in some situations: extended exposure to water has been shown to damage the skin Lifestyle or habits: smoking, drinking alcohol, lack of sleep These insults, including sun exposure, can suppress the immune system which can result in skin cancer. Protection of the skin from these insults is, therefore, critical for good health. The Skin & Its Definitions  A. melanocyte:  an epidermal cell that produces melanin B. muscle: a body tissue consisting of long cells that contract when stimulated and produce motion C. sebaceous gland: any of the small sacculated glands lodged in the substance of the derma, usu. opening into the hair follicles, and secreting an oily or greasy material composed in great part of fat which softens and lubricates the hair and skin D. hair shaft: the part of a hair projecting beyond the skin E. epidermis: the outer epithelial layer of the external integument of the animal body that is derived from the embryonic epiblast; specif : the outer nonsensitive and nonvascular layer of the skin that overlies the dermis F. dermis: the sensitive vascular inner mesodermic layer of the skin -- called also corium, cutis G. subcutaneous tissue: of or pertaining to tissue being, living, or made under the top layers of skin H. fat: animal tissue consisting chiefly of cells distended with greasy or oily matter I. arterial blood vessel: any of the vessels through which bright red, oxygenated blood coming back from the lungs circulates in the body . J. sweat gland: a simple tubular gland of the skin that secretes perspiration and in humans is widely distributed in nearly all parts of the skin -- called also sudoriferous gland K. hair follicle: the tubular epithelial sheath that surrounds the lower part of the hair shaft and encloses at the bottom a vascular papilla supplying the growing basal part of the hair with nourishment L. Pacinian corpuscle: an oval capsule that terminates some sensory nerve fibers esp. in the skin of the hands and feet Pacini, Filippo (1812-1883), Italian anatomist (definition source: Merriam-Webster Medical Dictionary) When surface skin cells are exfoliated on a regular basis, the upper layer of skin tightens and strengthens underlying collagen With ongoing exfoliation, wrinkles are reduced and surface of skin is smoother and rejeuvenated since the aged, damaged previous cells are removed.

 

Each layer has unique functions. This diagram shows a cross section:  

The epidermis is the outermost layer and it directly interacts with the environment. The epidermis protects by providing a barrier to outside materials (products, water, etc.) and by filtering sunlight. The epidermis is self-renewing. It replaces itself continually, unlike any other organ of the body. The dermis is beneath the epidermis. It contains the major structure-providing tissue fibers, collagen and elastic. It also contains the vascular system to provide a blood supply and nerve cells to process information to and from the brain. The subcutaneous tissue contains the fat pad and muscle.

The Epidermis

Like all tissues, the epidermis is made up of cells which have specific functions in the skin. A cell called the keratinocyte makes up most of the epidermis. The functions of the stratum corneum, the middle epidermis, the basal layer, and the dermal-epidermal junction are highlighted.

 

The Stratum Corneum

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer, directly in contact with the environment. It is about half the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. On average, the stratum corneum is about 20 cell layers thick. Despite its thin dimensions, the stratum corneum is incredibly strong. The cells are in a very well organized pattern.

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer, directly in contact with the environment. It is about half the thickness of a piece of notebook paper. On average, the stratum corneum is about 20 cell layers thick. Despite its thin dimensions, the stratum corneum is incredibly strong. The cells are in a very well organized pattern.

The stratum corneum has been described as a "brick and mortar" structure, as shown here:

The cells are the bricks and the lipids are the mortar. Lipids are "oily" materials that do not easily mix with water, such as cooking oil, petroleum jelly, baby oil, and grease. The skin lipids are mixtures of materials that form a very well organized structure between the cells. The lipid layer helps keep water in the stratum corneum by limiting passage of water from beneath. The lipids also keep water and water loving substances out of the body. The stratum corneum contains water that is associated with the protein materials in the cells. The cells hold onto water to keep them flexible and to allow the body´s movement without cracking the upper layer.

Neighboring stratum corneum cells are joined together through small attachments, called desmosomes. In a sense, these are like small "rivets". Each cell is attached at many points to nearby cells (cells above, beneath, adjacent). These multiple attachments provide considerable strength to this tissue.

The very top layer of the stratum corneum normally comes off or "sheds", about one cell layer per day. You can observe this layer by placing a piece of clear tape and put it on the back of your hand for a few minutes. Remove the tape and notice the flaky material, which is the top layer of cells. The desmosomes need to break in order to free the cells. This process, called desquamation, is carefully programmed to occur at the proper time.

The Middle Epidermis

Right below the bottom of the stratum corneum lies the middle epidermis. At the top, the cells are flatter than the rest of the layer. These top cells contain lipids and release them as they move upward. These lipids then become the stratum corneum lipids. The remaining cells are keratinocytes which have a cube shape and contain bundles of filaments that help protect the skin from the friction during movement and rubbing. Over time, the cells move upward to the top of the middle epidermis and eventually become stratum corneum cells. Their features change over time during this renewal and replacement process.

The Basal Layer

The basal layer rests at the bottom of the middle epidermis. The basal cells are different, however, because they actively divide to create new basal cells. The older cells move up to form the middle epidermis. All cells of the epidermis begin at this point by the process of cell division. The cell division process needs protein and other nourishment that are supplied by the functions of the dermis.

The basal layer contains a unique type of cell called the melanocyte or pigment cell. Unlike other basal cells, the melanocyte does not move upward. The melanocyte´s job is to make a substance called pigment, or melanin, which contributes to the coloration of the skin. Melanocytes go into action to make melanin when ultraviolet radiation interacts with the skin. The melanin is transferred from the melanocyte to the keratinocytes of the middle epidermis, to protect the nuclei of these cells from being damaged by radiation. Dark spots on the skin, such as freckles, are clusters of epidermal keratinocytes with melanin concentrated in them. Sun tanned skin has a more uniform distribution of keratinocytes with melanin. Both conditions are the response of the skin to sun exposure.

As the name suggests, the dermal-epidermal junction is right between the epidermis and the dermis. This layer of the skin holds the epidermis onto the dermis. It provides support to the entire tissue to help hold it in place.

Epidermal Cell Summary

The epidermis performs a wide variety of functions. Epidermal cells, or keratinocytes, move from the basal cell layer to the top of the stratum corneum in about 28 days. The specific time depends on the location on the body, the overall state of health, and the type and severity of environmental insult. The outermost layer of the stratum corneum comes off each day. When injury to the skin occurs, again from some sort of damage, the whole replenishment process works overtime to restore the skin to its proper condition and to ensure a protective barrier. In the case of serious injury, such as a major burn, the healing process requires a long time. The melanocytes, or pigment cells, housed in the bottom of the epidermis, produce melanin to protect the epidermal cells from ultraviolet damage.

The epidermis is unusual in that it does not contain nerve endings. Yet, the outer surface of our skin, the stratum corneum, can very easily detect events, including changes in heat, cold and humidity. We can also tell when the skin is touched. Even though it does not have nerve endings, the epidermis is thought to play an important role in signaling between the outside world and the brain. The Dermis The dermis is below the epidermis and above the subcutaneous tissue.

The epidermis is unusual in that it does not contain nerve endings. Yet, the outer surface of our skin, the stratum corneum, can very easily detect events, including changes in heat, cold and humidity. We can also tell when the skin is touched. Even though it does not have nerve endings, the epidermis is thought to play an important role in signaling between the outside world and the brain.

Collagen and elastin fibers make up a large part of the dermis. The thick fibers of collagen support the skin. Elastin fibers are very flexible and impart mechanical strength and resiliency to the skin by allowing it to stretch. When the elastin is in good condition, the skin returns to its original shape readily when it is flexed or stretched. If the elastin and collagen are in poor condition, the skin lacks resiliency, sags, and develops noticeable wrinkles.

The major functions of the dermis are to support the epidermis, to provide bulk and to anchor the skin. Importantly, the dermis contains blood vessels that bring oxygen and other nutrients to the basal layer for the cell division process. Nerve endings are also found in the dermis. Presumably they take signals from the epidermis, including the stratum corneum, and transmit them to the brain. This signaling function is unique because there are no nerve cells in the epidermis. The major parts are shown here:

The diagram shows that the dermis has a compact array of fibrous material, the collagen and elastin, necessary for support, resistance to damage, and overall health.

Aging and Its Effects on the Skin

The effects of aging on the skin are currently of great interest. People are living longer and more active lives than ever before. The "baby boomers" are now in their 30s, 40s and 50s. They have large disposable incomes and no intention of looking old. For them, "looking good" and "feeling good" go hand in hand.

The process of skin aging process has two parts: natural aging, due to increasing chronological age, and solar aging, due to the effects of the sun.

Natural Aging

Natural aging includes all of the environmental and genetic factors that impact the skin, other than those due to solar damage. As the skin ages, the cell movement from the bottom of the epidermis (basal layer) to the top (outermost stratum corneum) becomes slower. The skin surface becomes rougher, with a more uneven texture, because the cells are shed more slowly. Often the slowed desquamation process (remember the tape on your hand experiment?) results in the formation of large clumps of cells, observed as scales or dry skin flakes. The uneven texture and scaling tend to make your skin look duller. The epidermis becomes thinner and the skin becomes more fragile.

In the dermis, the elastic fibers become coarse and then disappear. The coarseness makes them less elastic. The skin returns to its original state much more slowly when it is stretched. The blood vessels decrease in size and number. This change influences the nutrient supply to the basal layer and accounts in part for the slower rate of epidermal replenishment. Some of the factors in natural aging are determined by the genetic make up of the individual. Much more needs to be learned about specific genetic influences.

Photoaging & Sun Damage

Sunlight causes significant damage to the skin which, unfortunately, does not show up right away. In fact, many people believe sun or tanning bed exposure equals a healthy appearance and healthy skin. This "socially desirable appearance" comes at the expense of poor appearance and poor skin health as one gets older. Tanning beds provide ultraviolet radiation through special bulbs and damage the skin as much as the sun itself. Individuals who spend most of their time indoors are still exposed to damaging rays when they do go outside. See the Frequently Asked Question on Skin Protection to see how you can protect your skin from sun damage.

Sun damage takes two forms, photoaging and skin cancer.

The majority of a lifetime sun exposure occurs before the age of 20. Children receive three times more exposure to the sun than adults. The damage process starts early in life unless the skin is protected.

Many non-melanoma skin cancers could be prevented with proper protection from the sun.

Photoaging: The Epidermis

Ultraviolet radiation from the sun penetrates the stratum corneum. It affects the epidermal cells and causes a change in thickness. Some areas of the epidermis increase in size and others decrease to produce an irregular, non-uniform structure. The normal, orderly processes of the epidermis are disrupted. As a result, the epidermis cannot produce a proper stratum corneum. The "defective" stratum corneum is irregular and the very top layer does not slough off properly. Consequently, the skin surface texture becomes rough and irregular.

The skin pigmentation, or coloration, becomes blotchy and irregular. This happens because the melanocytes are forced, by the ultraviolet radiation of the sun, to produce pigmentation. The pigment is transferred to the keratinocytes of the middle epidermis and these spots become visible when we view the skin surface. In addition, the skin tone becomes sallow and appears to lack the vitality of a healthy state.

Photoaging: The Dermis

Sunlight breaks down the collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis. These structures become irregular. This irregularity in the dermal support tissue leads to visible wrinkles. The fibers also lose their elasticity, causing the skin to sag. Sun damage leads to chronic inflammation of the dermis. As a consequence, the epidermis does not function properly. The chronic inflammation causes the epidermis to become thicker as it attempts to repair the damage.

Levels of Photoaging

Photoaging occurs to varying levels.

In Level I, ultraviolet radiation causes changes in the epidermis only. The alterations result in a dull, rough outer layer and in pigmented spots. In Level II, changes are caused in both the epidermis and the upper part of the dermis. Injury from the sun leads to increased wrinkling, and alterations in pigmentation and texture that are greater than those in Level I. Consequently, the skin´s features are not uniform, thereby exaggerating the effects. In Level III, changes occur in the epidermis and throughout the dermis. The wrinkling is more pronounced and the skin texture is much less uniform, often pebbly in appearance. The skin takes on a leathery appearance.

How to Care for and Protect Your Skin Skin care begins with a healthy lifestyle. Strive to do the following, wherever possible: drink plenty of water, eat a balanced diet with sufficient vitamins, exercise regularly, get enough sleep, avoid smoking and the use of tanning beds, minimize alcohol consumption, and manage daily stress. Some of these lifestyle techniques are easier to sustain than others, but they represent useful goals. Care for your skin in each of the following areas.

Skin care begins with a healthy lifestyle. Drink plenty of water Eat a balanced diet Take a daily vitamin Exercise regularly, Get enough sleep, Avoid smoking Avoid use of tanning beds Minimize use of alcohol Manage daily stress

Skin Cleansing
For daily hygiene, use a mild cleanser. Remove facial make up completely. Use lukewarm water for all cleansing. Rinse the skin thoroughly to remove cleansing materials from the skin surface. Gently pat dry and avoid rubbing.

Skin Moisturizing In "moisturizing," water is added to the skin. Moisturized skin is more flexible than dry skin. Application of moisturizer immediately after washing helps keep water within the skin. Skin moisturizers: (1) improve hydration (moisture content) and (2) add a "protective" layer on the skin surface to help hold moisture within the top layers. A large number of emollient creams and lotions are available. The protective layer provides a barrier to water loss. Therefore, water remains in the upper layers of the epidermis and makes the stratum corneum more flexible. Read product labels to check for certain ingredients. One of the most common ingredients for increasing hydration is glycerin, which holds onto water within the outer layers following application. A second type of ingredient serves as a barrier when applied to the skin. These materials include petrolatum, mineral oil, and certain plant oils. They are lipid in nature and protect the skin by minimizing water loss from the epidermis and by providing a barrier to intrusion.

Skin Moisturizing-A Primer on Improving Hydration Apply moisturizer immediately after washing to help keep water within the skin. Glycerin is among the most common ingredients for increasing hydration A second type of ingredient serves as a barrier when applied to the skin. Includes, petrolatum, mineral oil, and certain plant oils. Are lipid in nature and protect the skin by minimizing water loss from the epidermis and by providing a barrier to intrusion.

A second group of skin care materials is alpha hydroxy acids, known as the fruit acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc.), and beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid). These materials create a smoother skin surface by hydrating the surface layers and weakening and breaking the attachments between the stratum corneum cells. This process, known as exfoliation, assists in the removal of surface dry, scaly patches. Other interventions available to restore the skin to a more optimum state are discussed in the Skin Health and Restoration Frequently Asked Questions.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids Glycolic acid, lactic acid, etc. beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid) Create smoother skin surface Hydrate the surface layers and weaken and break attachments between stratum corneum cells-a process known as exfoliation Assists in the removal of surface dry, scaly patches.

Cancer Awareness
We advise periodic evaluations of any marks, moles, or pigmented areas by a trained health care professional. Any mole that changes in size or has an irregular border must be checked. Prevention of skin cancer involves avoiding sun damage and detecting trouble spots early. Be aware of changes in your skin and have them evaluated.

Adult Skin Care

An individual´s skin care regimen should include basic elements, as well as those tailored to specific needs and lifestyles. For the early adult (20-35 years), we recommend cleansing with a non-soap product and rinsing well and moisturizing, particularly in cold weather. Application of sun screens and sun blocks on a daily basis at an SPF value of 15 is essential. For early signs of damage, such as uneven pigmentation or fine wrinkles, a retinoid product should be considered. Control of acne is often an important element.

For the middle adult years (35-65), cleansing, moisturizing, sun protection, and use of retinoids are recommended. Acne can be problematic for this group, as well as early adults and teenagers. For persistent acne, various medications and treatments are available. Individuals may consider restorative techniques, such as the chemical peel, dermabrasion, or laser resurfacing, to correct the damage caused by sun exposure.

For the older adult (over 65 years), the cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection routines should be followed. Restorative techniques can provide noticeable improvement in skin damaged by sun exposure. Regardless of age, sun exposure should be minimized and sun screens and sun blocks applied routinely. They will prevent additional damage.

Infant Skin Care

At birth, the full-term human newborn is well-suited for life in a dry environment. The infant´s skin provides an efficient and protective barrier during the transition from the water environment to life outside. The full-term infant´s skin functions very well. The stratum corneum barrier protects against water loss and infection. The effective functioning of this barrier is surprising, particularly because the infant has spent nine months in a very wet environment. Nature has provided mechanisms to protect the infant´s skin in utero and to allow the stratum corneum to develop properly.

For infants born prematurely, the skin barrier is immature. The more premature the infant is, the poorer the skin barrier. Poor barrier function results in high evaporative water loss, which has negative consequences for temperature control and metabolism. Infants born less than 30 weeks gestation have a significantly poorer stratum corneum barrier than those born at term and at 32-34 weeks gestation. Once the baby is born and exposed to dry conditions, the barrier forms rapidly. This maturation takes place within the first five days of life for the preterm infant of less than 27 weeks.

Bathing

For routine bathing of the infant´s skin, we suggest a liquid product. Several brands are commercially available. The product should be diluted with water before it is applied. The infant should be rinsed thoroughly with water to minimize any cleanser residue left on the skin that may disrupt barrier function.

Diaper Area Care

Diaper rash is a common occurrence among infants and young children. Most of the time, the rash is relatively minor and appears as reddened areas within the diaper region. For mild irritation, we suggest cleansing the skin with warm water and a soft cloth. The skin should be dried thoroughly before diapering the baby. A hair drier on a very low setting is effective for drying the skin. At other times, particularly if the infant has been taking antibiotics and experiences diarrhea, the rash can be more severe. The area should be cleansed with warm water and a soft cloth. Apply a diaper rash product to the affected areas. This will provide a "protective" barrier between the skin and the next soiling. Use a product that is easy to cleanse away and do not rub the skin. Ideally, only remove the soiled material. Leave the remaining cream in place to avoid scrubbing the skin. Reapply the rash cream as needed. If the rash does not clear up or if it gets worse, seek medical attention.

 

Last Reviewed: May 18, 2000

Marty O. Visscher, Ph.D. Executive Dir. and Scientific Investigator Skin Sciences Institute, Childrens Hospital Medical Center, University of Cinncinatti

Last Reviewed: May 18, 2000